As spring unfolds (soon!), my latest designs are blossoming too. I’m sketching fresh styles and handpicking fabrics that echo the soft hues of birch trees, blue skies and the green of new spring foliage.
The new collection features striped linen, organic cotton in tranquil shades of “Dove” and “Green Gold,” and an exquisite natural linen jacquard. Contrasting buttons add a warm touch.
Stay tuned for the unveiling of structured garments that effortlessly blend style and comfort. The promise of spring is just around the corner!
Click the video above for a sneak peak of my new spring styles.
Warmest wishes,
]]>The past two weeks I shared with you my dyeing of Merino wool scarves with Cochineal and with Brazilwood and Weld. Today I am finishing this series by sharing with you the Merino wool scarves I have dyed with Weld. As with the previous dyes, I started with scarves woven from grey Merino wool. Dyeing them with Weld has created a beautiful chartreuse colour.
The grey Merino wool scarves before dyeing.
Fresh from the dye vat - still wet.
Thanks for following my journey dyeing the Merino wool scarves!
Warmest regards,
Kathleen
Last week I shared with you my dyeing of Merino wool scarves with cochineal. This week I am doing a similar process with Brazilwood (or Sappanwood) and Weld. The Merino wool scarves are soft, almost tissue-like - quite 'heavenly' I will say. The scarves are woven from grey wool. Applying Brazilwood and Weld results in a rich cinnebar colour.
Weld (Reseda luteola) grows mostly in Europe. It produces a vibrant yellow colour. Brazilwood (Paubrasilia echinata) is native to Brazil. Sappanwood (Biancaea sappan) is related to Brazilwood and grows in Asia. Brazilwood and Sappanwood both produce a beautiful red.
The video below shows the process to create this vibrant colour.
Weld Plant
"Weld (Reseda luteola)" by Deanster1983 who's mostly off is licensed under CC BY-ND 2.0
Sappanwood (Brazilwood)
Upper Image: David E Mead, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons; Lower Image: Francisco Manuel Blanco (O.S.A.), Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Next I'll be dyeing Merino wool scarves with Weld and a hint of cochineal. Stay tuned.
Warmest regards,
Kathleen
Natural dyeing is complicated and time consuming but the outcome is so worth it. This week I've been dyeing Merino wool scarves with cochineal.
The cochineal insect (Dactylopius coccus) lives on the prickly pear cactus and is collected by brushing the insects off the plants. Crushing and boiling the dried insects results in a beautiful red natural dye.
Because these Merino scarves started with a grey base colour, over-dyeing them with cochineal has resulted in a rich lilac colour.
The video below shows the process I've gone through to create this vibrant colour.
Cochineal has been used as a dye for centuries. The botanical drawing below shows a man harvesting cochineal. It was created by José Antonio de Alzate y Ramírez, who lived in the 1700s.
You can see the rich lilac colour as the scarves dry on the rack after dyeing:
Next I'll be dyeing Merino wool scarves with Weld and with Eastern Brazilwood. Stay tuned.
Warmest regards,
Kathleen
I'm working on my new styles for spring and am excited about this beautiful cotton fabric with an indigo-colour print. I'm featuring it in the Box Pleat Top, one of my best selling styles.
In the video above, you see the bias being attached - or pinned - initially before being sewn onto the neckline. I do all the laying up of the fabric and cutting out of the design, not to mention, doing my own R&D and pattern development. It's definitely slow fashion!
Here's the finished garment paired with the Avocado Bias Slip Dress.
Fall is in full swing and so are my Fall styles. I had been asking that pre-orders be placed by October 15. However, to give everyone more flexibility during this special season, I decided to extend the pre-order period until FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 5.
I had the pleasure this week of Joan Goodman of Masala Model & Talent stopping by my studio to pose in my new Fall styles. Joan and I are Facebook friends, and I invited her in for a photo shoot.
In the photo above, Joan is wearing the Shawl Collar Wrap Coat in Brick colour. This easy relaxed style has a wide shawl collar, pockets and plenty of room for layering. It comes in a heavier weight cotton/linen blend. It's paired with the Bias Slip Dress in Black linen.
The Shawl Collar Wrap Coat is also available in a beautiful Black as shown below, as paired with the Bias Slip Dress in Brick colour. Joan has added a wide belt for an optional look.
Below, Joan is wearing the Sophia Tunic in Heathered Grey. Joan told me she "loved" this tunic when she saw it on Facebook. It features a traditional Caftan collar along with side pleats and box-pleat pockets for extra room and comfort. The slightly dropped shoulder seam allows for a relaxed fit. It also comes in a beautiful Lichen colour.
The Cropped Top comes in five great Fall colours, three of which Joan is wearing below - Persimmon, Tuscany Yellow and Galaxy Blue. The twill weave makes for a nice drape and a soft, buttery texture.
Below, Joan is wearing the Bias Slip Dress in Black with and without the Bolero Kimono Jacket in Brick colour. The Jacket is made of a cotton/linen blend in a jacquard weave. It has an elegant Dolman sleeve for a comfortable, easy fit. It also comes in Black.
All styles are designed and produced with love in Saskatoon. Thanks again to Joan for modeling my Fall styles.
Remember to PLACE YOUR ORDER BY FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 5.
As always, thank you for your interest and your support.
Warmest wishes,
Fall is here. And Fall colours are here too, announcing the change in the seasons. Colours that bring inward warmth as a chill comes to the air. Beautiful persimmon orange, deep yellows, rich ochre, moss green and galaxy blue. These are the colours I will be bringing to you in my Fall styles.
I'm putting the finishing touches on my Fall designs and am excited to bring them to you in a few short weeks. Comfortable styles in wool and rich linen will brighten your Fall days.
Warmest wishes,
Iris Apfel turns 100! (well, officially on August 29, 2021).
Who is Iris Apfel? She is a socialite, fashion icon, interior designer and much more. One thing I really like about Iris is her dry wit and perfect delivery for a joke - often about herself. She has also inspired a Barbie Doll in her image. Here's a fun trailer of a documentary about Iris:
It's perfect timing with Dame Iris turning 100, and also being featured in the most recent Selvedge Magazine's 100th issue. For anyone who doesn't know about Selvedge Magazine, it is a treasured publication, one of which (and I've said this before) when it arrives, I head to a quiet corner to read and pour over the visuals; learning of slow textiles and the wonders of world heritage and textiles. I used to tell my husband that when the Selvedge Magazine arrived, it was like getting a new doll; I wanted to be all alone to play with my 'new doll'. By the way, you can still back-order the 100th issue featuring Iris.
Speaking of Selvedge Magazine, the yearly Selvedge World Fair (digital this year and last) starts on Sept. 4th. The World Fair is a full and amazing 5-day program featuring artisans and textile traditions from around the world. In fact, some of the artisans I have had the privilege to meet in India on my past travels. This video shows just a taste of some of the world craft and artisans you will see if you purchase tickets to the event:
Most of the events will be recorded and you can view them at your leisure. You can purchase tickets online. Enjoy the show!
]]>As most of you know, for many years I've been operating under the name of grady bleu in celebration of my love for the rich history and tradition of indigo-dyed textiles. Today, however, I am excited to announce that I am 'returning to my roots,' you might say, and rebranding as KATHLEEN O'GRADY DESIGN. What that means is my website address is now kathleenogradydesign.com. But don't worry, you can still type in gradybleu.com and it will take you to the website. For Instagram and Facebook my name is now Kathleen O'Grady Design.
Even though I'm rebranding, my passion and focus remain the same - slow clothing and world textiles and cultures. I will continue to bring you quality garments made with great care and attention to detail, garments that fit well and are able to transition, match and complement each other from season to season.
Thank you for being with me over the years and your continued support.
Warmest wishes,
I had the pleasure this week of Kathy Bond stopping by my studio to pose in several of my new Spring styles. In addition to modelling for Masala Model & Talent, Kathy is well known in Saskatoon as the Owner and Director of Saskatoon Pilates Centre.
My new styles are AVAILABLE FOR PRE-ORDER UNTIL MAY 2. I am only taking pre-orders on these styles so be sure to place your order by Sunday, May 2!
Below Kathy is wearing my new Linen Jacquard Tunic with Side Pleats in Grey. It also comes in Ivory. This tunic is made of jacquard fabric and has simple lines with a hint of shape. The shoulder seam extends slightly off the shoulder allowing for a wee bit more coverage on your arms.
Kathy looks great in my Shawl Collar Wrap Coat in this beautiful ivory-coloured cotton/linen blend. It has a wide shawl collar, pockets and plenty of room for layering. Kathy is layering the coat over the Linen Jacquard Tunic in ivory.
Here check out Kathy in the Shawl Collar Wrap Coat in black layered over the Linen Jacquard Tunic in grey.
Thanks again to Kathy for modeling my new Spring styles. She shows how comfort, style, details and simplicity can help you look and feel your best.
My new styles are AVAILABLE FOR PRE-ORDER UNTIL MAY 2. I am only taking pre-orders on these styles so be sure to place your order by Sunday, May 2!
Warmest wishes,
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My goal as a clothing designer is to help you create a wardrobe that makes you look and feel your best. I also want you to have a wardrobe that gives you lots of flexibility, making the most of your clothing investment. My approach for achieving these goals is layering - creating pieces that look fabulous all by themselves, but that also mix and match well with your other pieces, creating ensembles perfect for every occasion. My new Spring styles embody this philosophy.
My new styles are AVAILABLE FOR PRE-ORDER UNTIL MAY 2 so be sure to place your order by Sunday, May 2!
Take my Bias Slip Dress. It comes in four great colours, including ivory, charcoal, black and avocado. It's beautiful all by itself, but it also makes a great foundation for putting together outfits that are perfect for just about every occasion.
My new Linen Jacquard Tunic with Side Pleats comes in Ivory and Grey. It's made of jacquard fabric and has simple lines with a hint of shape. The shoulder seam extends slightly off the shoulder allowing for a wee bit more coverage on your arms. The Linen Jacquard Tunic looks great all by itself, but see below how nicely it layers with the Bias Slip Dress. It also works great with something as simple as a pair of jeans or leggings, if that's what you're in the mood for.
Wear my Bolero Jacket in a textured cotton/linen blend with a jacquard weave for a little extra coverage on your shoulders. It slips on effortlessly and gives a completed look for the day or evening. It comes in ivory and black, and it's perfect for layering with the Linen Jacquard Tunic and the Bias Slip Dress together, or with the Bias Slip Dress alone. You can also wear it with a long-sleeved t-shirt or button-down classic blouse.
My Shawl Collar Wrap Coat has a wide shawl collar, pockets and plenty of room for layering. It's an an easy relaxed style that also layers so nicely with the Linen Jacquard Tunic and the Bias Slip Dress together, or with the Bias Slip Dress alone. It comes in ivory and black.
Comfort, style, details and simplicity - styles that look great in their own right and that look beautiful together through layering. That's my philosophy for helping you build a wardrobe that makes you look and feel your best.
Remember, my new styles are AVAILABLE FOR PRE-ORDER UNTIL MAY 2 so be sure to place your order by Sunday, May 2!
Warmest wishes,
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Bolero! What a great word, bringing to mind excitement and romance. My new Bolero Jacket in a textured cotton/linen blend with a jacquard weave hopefully will add excitement to your wardrobe (and perhaps a little romance 😊). The bolero adds another layer (no pun intended) to a simple dress - in this case my featured Bias Slip Dress. Wear the bolero for a little extra coverage on your shoulders. It slips on effortlessly and gives a completed look for the day or evening. You can also wear it with a long sleeved t-shirt or button-down classic blouse.
Pairing the bolero with the Bias Slip Dress creates layers (you know how much I love layers!) and makes for a finished looking ensemble.
Remember, my new Spring styles are AVAILABLE FOR PRE-ORDER UNTIL MAY 2. Be sure to place your order by Sunday, May 2!
Warmest wishes,
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You're probably coming to the conclusion that I like layers - you're right! 😊 Mixing and matching styles gives you lots of flexibility, letting you put together the perfect outfit whatever the occasion. For this spring I've created my Shawl Collar Wrap Coat in a beautiful ivory-coloured cotton/linen blend. This easy relaxed style has a wide shawl collar, pockets and plenty of room for layering. And, it pairs very well with my new Linen Jacquard Tunic with Side Pleats and my new Bias Slip Dress, shown below.
Putting them all together creates a relaxed and effortless look, so nicely modelled by Sara below.
My Shawl Collar Wrap Coat this season also comes in Black! It too pairs well with the Bias Slip Dress. Comfort, style, details and simplicity again carry the day with an effortless look.
During the design process, I have my graphic artist create a line drawing for each design. I thought you might enjoy seeing the illustration below for the Shawl Collar Wrap Coat.
Remember, my new Spring styles are AVAILABLE FOR PRE-ORDER UNTIL MAY 2. Be sure to place your order by Sunday, May 2!
Warmest wishes,
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It’s been a long winter but I'm sure you're as happy as I am that Spring is just about to burst forth! And, with the inspiration of Spring, I am so pleased to share with you my creations for the new season!
My new styles are AVAILABLE FOR PRE-ORDER UNTIL MAY 2 so be sure to place your order by Sunday, May 2!
I've been busy over the winter months creating a collection of new designs I think you'll like. Over the next couple of weeks I'll be sharing with you my new designs, starting here with two of my favourites - the Linen Jacquard Tunic with Side Pleats and the Bias Slip Dress.
The Linen Jacquard Tunic with Side Pleats comes in two colours - Grey (above) and Ivory. The tunic is made of jacquard fabric and has simple lines with a hint of shape and - a feature I love - pleats! The shoulder seam extends slightly off the shoulder allowing for a wee bit more coverage on your arms.
Part of my inspiration for this spring is to create pieces that work great in their own right but that also layer well together. My new Bias Slip Dress in Charcoal shown above looks great all by itself AND it layers so nicely with the Linen Jacquard Tunic! Comfort, style, details and simplicity carry the day.
Both the Linen Jacquard Tunic with Side Pleats and the Bias Slip Dress come in another great colour for Spring - Ivory! Just like the Grey Tunic and Charcoal Slip Dress, they both work great all by themselves and worn together they create a classic layered look.
The Tunic in both colours also works great with something as simple as a pair of jeans or leggings, if that's what you're in the mood for.
I hope my new designs inspire you to celebrate the turning of the seasons and the hopefulness of Spring. I would love to know what you think of my new creations. Please drop me a line and let me know!
And remember to place your pre-order by SUNDAY, MAY 2!
Warmest wishes,
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I believe in pink...and I believe in miracles.
-- Audrey Hepburn
Pink is often associated with love and romance. Often thought of as a feminine colour, pink is associated with the qualities of softness, kindness, nurturance, and compassion.
As a clothing designer who produces garments locally, and in small batches, I consider myself to be an adherent of slow fashion. I've also spent a number of years travelling encountering artisans and other practitioners of slow fashion in Europe, Asia and Africa. In the photo above from 1983, I am seen in Paris, France at the famous Montmartre market. I'm sure Montmartre would be very different now than it was then.
To celebrate slow fashion, I am doing a new series of blog postings called "Slow Fashion Fridays." On select Friday's over the coming months, I’ll be posting about slow fashion themes, including featured textiles, travel, slow fashion artisans and natural dyes.
The term slow fashion has been around for a number of years and occasionally I still get asked what it means. Sometimes I find it easier to define and talk about slow fashion by first talking about fast fashion. Fast fashion is about making garments as cheaply as possible and is characterized by:
"Sweatshop project" by marissaorton is licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0
In contrast to Fast Fashion, Slow Fashion is characterized by:
Fast fashion is happening in countries I’ve had the good fortune to visit, but there are also wonderful traditions of slow fashion in these countries.
Here I am in Japan in 1985 at the famous Toji Temple Market in Kyoto that occurred once a month.
I am passionate about textile traditions. I love my fellow artisan’s and their long heritage of tradition and culture. Although the aging population of artisans creates a challenge with fewer younger generations wanting to continue their traditional crafts, there is good news! A revival of slow fashion is gaining momentum the world over. Interest is increasing as customers come to understand the value of having a piece of clothing they cherish that was created in a way that strengthens artisanal communities.
Even the COVID-19 pandemic seems to be encouraging the slow fashion revival. Li Edelkoort is a Dutch trend forecaster and one of the most influential brand consultants in the world. She advises companies on sustainability practices and has worked with companies such as Coca Cola, Nissan, L’Oréal, and Gucci, to name a few. She has been quoted by Wikipedia, “She described the COVID-19 pandemic as an opportunity in that the global disruption of travel and of the supply chain from China might trigger new forms of local sourcing and production.”
I love Li Edelkoort's quote about textiles and culture:
Thanks for reading my first installment of Slow Fashion Fridays. I look forward to sharing with you more slow fashion stories on Friday's to come.
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I've never been one to follow trends in my designs, but as a clothing designer, I'm always interested in hearing what the new year brings for colour themes. This year I've noticed the two new colours of the year that Pantone selected. They are: Ultimate grey and Illuminating yellow. Grey is such a great colour as it will provide a good undertone for any pop of colour you may want to add to transform the neutral tone and give it just that - a 'pop'. And while I'm not really one for a bright yellow, I will say that one of my favourite dyes and the colour it produces is a bright, intense yellow coming from the Reseda luteola dye plant. I have dyed with this dye and it is one of my favourites. Interestingly, not every one who dyes with the weld plant (it's the flowers that give the yellow colour) can achieve the bright yellow. Depending on whether you have hard or soft water to dye with, the brilliance (or lack there-of) will be determined by the water in the region. For weld, hard water will produce a brilliant yellow.
Dyeing with the weld plant in the dye vat.
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This is a flash back to a few years ago of a natural dyes class I took at Maiwa Handprints in Vancouver, BC. I was fortunate, not only to get into the class (competition can be fierce), but also to be able to study with Charlotte Kwon - owner, filmmaker, designer and much more, of Maiwa Handprints. Charlotte, along with her team have created a bit of an 'empire' you might say, by way of travelling the globe working with cultures to encourage and preserve their traditions of natural dye work, teaching natural dye workshops all the while maintaining - back at home (in Vancouver, BC) their supply shop of natural dye stuff as well as workshops and a clothing store on Granville Island.
It was a four-day intensive workshop and covered a lot of ground in terms of fabric preparation (mordanting) and working with all the different natural dyes. Different fabrics require different preparations. For example, cellulose fibres, such as linen, cotton and hemp require different mordants and absorb the dyes differently. Fabrics such as wool and silk - protein fibres, require their own speciality for preparation.
Silk-rayon velvet sample swatches dyed with natural dyes.
More silk-rayon velvet samples of natural dyes.
Cotton and linen samples - dyed with natural dyes.
An impressive array of beautiful colours - all with natural dyes, on silk, linen, cotton, hemp and wool samples; a joint effort with my 'sister' class members.
As I wandered home to my lodgings on the final day of the workshop, this is what appeared as I turned the corner. How delightful and how appropriate - the Colours of Nature were right in front of me.
]]>Each morning an eager crowd awaited entrance to the show.
A panoramic view of the show while standing on the stairs. Approximately 300 vendors attended this high-calibre juried event.
As an entrant to the Salon, a fun engagement was the daily figurine hunt for the image of Christian Begin, Salon Spokesperson. Each day, three small cardboard figurines look-alike's of Christian would be placed in artisan's booths. Salon guest participants would record the location of the figurine and receive a chance to win a prize for completing their submission form.
Alexa of Member Services with the Saskatchewan Craft Council, wears a lot of hats. :)
My booth at Salon Metier.
Alexa wearing one of my designs in silk taffeta, as well as one of my naturally dyed, textured wool scarves.
Mary Lynn Podiluk of Mary Lynn Podiluk Jewellery and Sherri Hrycay of Sova Hats were also selected by the Saskatchewan Craft Council to attend the historic event.
The day before the Salon Metier started we decided to search out the famous St. Viateur bagel and cafe. An outside view of the famous bagel shop.
Our visit to the famous bagel shop.
Watching the bagels drop.
Another highlight of our stay was the adventure we took the day before the Salon started to find a good pair of shoes for the show. Eleven hours on one's feet is a long time, and so you've got to have good shoes. We did a search and found Tony's Chasseurs (shoes). Tony's has been around since 1937 and one of the fellows has worked there for almost 50 years. It's the kind of place where they still measure your foot. Remember the days when you would come into a shoe store and and you'd tell them what you were looking for, and the first thing they would do would be to measure your foot? Our server said that they are one of the last shoe stores that measure a person's feet. A step back in time, for sure (no pun intended).
The right foot getting measured.
Here are a few videos of the Christmas festivities during our time there.
Early morning in the tunnel of Central Station Gauchetière where the shops and activity are vibrant.
One of the favourite morning stops before the show opened; a trip to Premiere Moisson Bakery at Central Station Gauchetière.
Bakery delights galore!
Eclairs, and more.
Delicacies.
And the breads…..!
An evening out and briefly stopping by the Palais De Congres Montreal - beautiful coloured glass. We were there in the evening obviously, but it would be heavenly any time of day, with the changing light.
An early morning walk in old Montreal before the show opened at 11:00. Our last morning before the final day of the show.
Street sign and thinking of the spirit of Christmas.
Oliv et Gourmando cafe and coffee shop. A wonderful cafe: Oliv et Gourmando.
Walking back from breakfast we can see beautiful Notre-Dame.
Notre Dame - side view.
Front view of Notre Dame.
A walk by the famous Notre-Dame Basilica in old Montreal. The beautiful bells!
A walk down by the Port of Montreal got me wondering how it must have been so many years ago when the city began upon those shores.
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Nature always wears the colors of the spirit.
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson
Nature is a refuge where we connect with our essence and open our senses, seeing, hearing, smelling and feeling more vibrantly. And we revel in the stunning colours of nature - greens, yellows, blues, reds, pinks, and, yes, the colour orange.
Orange is the happiest color.
-- Frank Sinatra
Orange evokes feelings of excitement, enthusiasm and warmth. Orange is an energetic colour and the colour of sunrises and sunsets.
Connecting to nature through colour takes time - a slow process. The artisan must gently coax the colour; following Old-World practices, using processes passed down through generations. But, in taking time, the colour stands the test of time, carrying a vibrancy that delights and a quality that improves with age.
You can dye with indigo powdered extract or with the leaves themselves. I took a natural dye workshop in Laos in 2010. These leaves were gathered from the mountains that morning.
Indigo leaves soaking for three days before dyeing with them.
Straining the indigo leaves.
Close-up of straining the liquid.
A jacket I designed; I dyed the linen with indigo and added the feature stripe of Laotian indigo fabric on the back. Skirt is silk taffeta that I over-dyed with indigo.
The history of indigo includes a dark side because of the exploitation of colonized countries and peoples. Indigo was one of the most valuable exports from the Southeast United States and the Caribbean and it was produced using the labour of enslaved Africans. India under British colonization was a major supplier of indigo to Europe. In Bengal, the farmers were forced to grow indigo rather than food crops. In 1859 the farmers revolted against oppression by the East India Company in what became known as the Indigo Revolt or the Blue Mutiny. In the early 1900’s natural indigo was replaced by synthetic dye and the natural indigo trade dyed out and, along with it, the indigo plantations.
But there is much more to indigo's history than this dark side. Indigo dyeing has been practiced since antiquity in India, Asia, Africa and South America. The word "indigo" is derived from the Ancient Greek word for "Indian dye." For generations indigenous people have created exquisite textiles and passed the techniques down from one generation to the next.
I could never say I am an expert of indigo dyeing, but it has influenced me. I am inspired by its magic, including the beautiful colour it produces and its practice by diverse cultures.
Visiting a specialty indigo shop in Kyoto, Japan, in 1985. I lived in Japan for two years in the 1980's and was influenced by indigo blue fabrics that were so much a part of their culture.
Japanese 'Kasuri' fabric pieces I collected while there.
Vintage collectible indigo and naturally dyed cotton.
More collectible Japanese indigo fabrics. I was there in the mid-1980's and these fabrics were old then!
In recent times, there has been a world-wide revival of indigo dyeing. I have had the good fortune of being a student of some of the world masters who take great pride in the indigo-textile traditions from their native countries.
I was fortunate to meet Dr. Kikuo Morimoto in Cambodia in 2010. Dr. Morimoto, a Japanese textile master, came to Cambodia in the 1990's to revive the traditional weaving and natural dye arts that had been lost in the time of the Khmer Rouge. Here Dr. Morimoto shows me the location of new indigo vats.
Indigo can take years to master. I've been told that Malian indigo master, Aboubakar Fofana, taught a 10-day indigo workshop several years ago in Oakland, California. He started the indigo vats with the class, but for some reason, the vats did not work. After much deliberation, he discovered that the high chlorine in the tap water affected the pH of the vats, and he had to start them again with purified water. Even the masters are challenged by indigo.
Jenny Balfour-Paul is one of the leading experts on indigo. In 2018 Jenny Balfour-Paul gave a talk at Maiwa Handprints in Vancouver about her book Deeper Than Indigo which covers her travels and encounters with indigo. If you would like to be spell-bound by Jenny's talk, view the video below or listen to the podcast.
This video is a wonderful depiction of indigo revival in India:
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Be sure to drop by and see it in person if you can. Open Monday - Saturday, 10:00 - 5:00 PM.
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My submission entitled "Perseverance" was accepted by the Saskatchewan Craft Council for the exhibition entitled, From Scratch, showing from August 3 to November 6. The invitation for submission was presented as such: "To make something ‘from scratch’ is a phrase from the mid-1800’s (England). Originally referring to the line scratched in the ground from where competitors began a race, this phrase has come to describe a certain way of making."
Back detail of the coat.
I was delighted when I was recently given a bundle of locally-grown rhubarb by a friend. I remember how much I love it and I have fond memories of Mum making rhubarb custard squares. When it came to baking she would seem to effortlessly produce something in no time. Perhaps it was those years of feeding her brood, including seven children and the men working the fields. Like many farm women, Mum produced a whole lot of meals, but she excelled at desserts.
I loved Mum's rhubarb custard squares. A shortbread bottom layer with a layer of custard and, of course, rhubarb. Here is Mum's handwritten recipe for the rhubarb custard. She used her standard (and delicious) shortbread crust to make the squares:
For a full rhubarb custard squares recipe, including crust, try https://pin.it/6Wcgmpg
Happy Summer!
Photo by Monika Grabkowska
]]>We've been four months into COVID-19 since mid-March. It's been a long four months adjusting to all the uncertainty. I've been fortunate to have had a separate space away from my home with which to retreat to during this time. I've been grateful for my beautiful studio space where I can work uninterrupted in the sun-filled space with its high ceilings. A lovely old skylight is one of the central features of the building. Who doesn't respond to glorious natural light? Natural light, always the best.
Late afternoon sun in the hallways.
The York Building is a heritage building in Saskatoon. Some of you might remember the Rexall Drug store that was there for years on the corner of 23rd Street and 2nd Avenue. A dentist's office was in the building at one time, too, and to this day a vintage dentist's chair sits in the corner upon entering the foyer. A grand set of stairs leads you up to offices on the second floor.
Space to sit in the south sun.
A small space of 425 sq/ft, but it's glorious when the sun shines as I have two east-facing (massive) windows as well as one on the south side. When I took over the space I had the false ceiling taken up to allow the full length of the original ceiling. I love it. In the late Spring and Summer when I arrive in the morning, I don't even need to turn the lights on because the sunlight shines through the gap at the top of the windows where the blinds don't cover.
Fabric is layed out and ready to cut. It was so sunny, I had to close the blinds to avoid the glare. This is definitely a 'slow clothing, limited edition' kind of business. There are no large orders of garments that are being pumped out of a factory. These are slow processes; intentional and thoughtful.
Studio work time. A lovely bolt of the finest South Indian, indigo-dyed cotton with a white motif.
Inspiration board catches all kinds of things over the years.
Studio plants gathered.
My favourite ladder.
]]>The next morning upon waking, I said to my husband, "The first day without Frank.” The truth is, there was never enough time with Frank. Frank was like the Mr. Rogers of the neighbourhood, and the “neighbourhood” was the everyone-who-knew-him neighbourhood. He touched many lives. He was a teacher who touched many young lives, a traveller and an environmentalist and conservationist.
My family (Mom, Dad, brothers and sisters) met him in 1974 when we moved to the city from the farm. I did the math yesterday – that makes it 46 years that I knew Frank. He lived on the corner just two houses from us. I wasn't around much after I graduated in 1976, as I went to live in other provinces and then lived abroad for 3 years. But Frank was always in some way 'there', his name seemed invariably woven into a family conversation.
What made Frank special was that he was always curious and interested in learning about who you were and what you were up to. He liked all things of beauty and he loved the arts. Frank engaged with you and you always felt when you were with him, that you "mattered."
About a year ago, on a whim I decided to call him and see if he would be free for lunch (he was such a social butterfly, would he be available?). He said he was at home and to come over. Before I left the house to pick up lunch for us, I thought I would take the precious doll clothes that I had been sewing for my girlfriend’s daughter who had breast cancer (it was as healing for me to make the clothes as it was to give them to her) - I remembered my friend’s daughter when she was a young girl. I wanted to show Frank, but struggled for a moment as to whether I should take them or not. My first thought was, "Don't take them, Frank will think you're silly - doll clothes for God sake!?" My immediate next thought was, "No, if there is anyone in the world you can show your works of art it’s Frank". And, so I brought them with me. He thought they were beautiful and he marvelled with enthusiasm at the fine detailing and delicate fabrics I had selected. Frank liked all things beautiful.
Doll dress - Green ballgown.
Doll coat - checked fabric with pink duppioni silk lining.
Doll dress - Cotton indigo batik.
All the outfits.
In 2005, Frank received an Honorary Degree for a Doctor of Science from the University of Saskatchewan for his contribution for education, conservation and international service. In 2005 he received Saskatchewan’s highest award, The Order of Merit.
One of the stories I recall Frank telling was the time he’d spent in Gambia, West Africa. He’d gone there to teach teachers in the schools. He related that after being there for a number of months he attended one day, a very large gathering of sorts. Several days after the gathering one of the local women said she’d seen him there. Surprised, he said, “My goodness, there were so many people, how did you ever see me?” She looked at him, smiled quietly, knowingly, and said, “…Mr. Roy” (leaving him to figure out the obvious). Frank had lived there as part of the community for so many months, he’d forgotten he was white! Frank, what a hoot!
Resting with Frank behind the Mendel Art Gallery on a birding trip during a visit home. Photo by Pat Clarke.
As an environmentalist and conservationist, one of Frank’s last great legacies was the book, "The Birds of Saskatchewan," (click the link to see an interview with Frank about the book launch) which he co-authored with Stuart Houston and Alan Smith. A labour of love, it took them ten years to write. Frank often joked, "It's a race with the undertaker" (to finish the book). I was thankful that in January of 2019, we were able to attend the book signing at McNally Robinson, the local independent bookstore. The house was full.
McNally Robinson, January 29, 2019. Book signing of The Birds of Saskatchewan.
Frank at the book signing.
Me being a groupie with Frank, the night of the book signing.
One of the last photos of Scott and I with Frank last summer (2019).
Frank was "our Frank", but not just our Frank, everyone's Frank. A shining star, a shining light that influenced so many lives. Frank, the world isn't the same without you. You are soaring with the birds now. Go swiftly dear, good Frank. May you find your wings in heaven.
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“Keeping calm” doesn’t mean denial or bearing down. Keeping calm speaks to going inward and finding our inner resolve; it means a good deal of self-care. Self-care takes effort, but once found, that quiet place of resolve affects the ability to make better, sound decisions. Decisions that will make the difference in how we navigate our day, from driving safely to resisting the urge to react when that may seem like the only choice. Remember to breath. We are all in this together. I believe we'll get through this.
Continue to find ways to engage with community. As we reduce our face-to-face interactions with others, this is a time to reach out in other ways. Sign up for an online class or online church ceremony. Call someone just to hear their voice. It will make the difference in their day and yours.
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Kathy Bond is a pilates instructor and the owner of Saskatoon Pilates. Kathy is - in a word (or two) the 'real deal'. I first met Kathy a few years ago in a women's group where the ages ranged from about 25 - 70 and Kathy was the most flexible and fit of us all! That would be due to her active practice of pilates and a long history of involvement with dance. In 2017 Kathy was selected by the National Ballet of Canada to train and teach dance to older adults with dementia. When she returned to Saskatoon, she implemented her training with several nursing homes as well as combining this with a group of Grade 10 students to work together. I had been looking for someone to do body work with, namely pilates, and I finally took the plunge a few years ago. Never once have I shown up to class and had Kathy lacking for motivation and a clear plan for us on any given day. Her dedication to her work, her sense of humour and a deep understanding of how the body moves make Kathy stand out as a woman of talent and conviction.
Let me introduce you to Karen McCall, a gentle force to be reckoned with. Karen is a pioneer and forerunner in the field of financial and spiritual wellness and the author of Financial Recovery: Developing a Healthy Relationship with Money. I was first introduced to her work about 14 years ago when I lived in Seattle. I had the good fortune to work with her protege at that time, as well as attend workshops with Karen over the years to uncover some of my own attitudes and disconnects with money. Today, Karen is living a life-long dream of travelling the world (with her husband) while continuing to provide financial and spiritual wellness via digital online workshops.
Lastly, my Mother. She taught me all she knew about sewing, but it was way more than sewing, it was her innate sense of design and composition, her adventurous spirit (even though she'd never travelled, she did so through 'good' books), her experimental curiosity and inquisitiveness. I still hear her voice when I'm in the studio working on a new design or well, any time of day actually; she's never far away. I had a long-forgotten childhood memory the other day, chuckled and thought of calling her, knowing she was the only one who would know what I'd be talking about. But I had to pull back and remembered sadly, that she's no longer here.
I ask you, today, on this International Women's Day to think of some of the women throughout your life who have influenced you in a positive way. Take a moment to honour them in whatever way that might be. Tell them how much they made a difference in your life.
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